What kind of place is Jeju?
Jeju is Korea's largest island, a volcanic island with Hallasan, the highest mountain in South Korea, rising at its center. Hallasan, Seongsan Ilchulbong, famous for its sunrise views, and the island's lava tubes were inscribed as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 2007, and the culture of the haenyeo, women who dive into the sea without breathing equipment to harvest seafood, is on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Small volcanic cones called oreum, black basalt stone walls, and walking trails that circle the island along the coast define the landscape. Unlike exploring the cities of Seoul or Busan, a Jeju trip means covering wide areas in search of nature, so transport and weather planning make or break your itinerary.
The island by area: north, south, east, west
Jeju City in the north is the gateway to the island, with the airport and the main urban area, plenty of lodging and restaurants, and a hub of bus routes. Seogwipo, south of Hallasan, has many waterfalls and coastal cliffs and is relatively mild. The east has Seongsan Ilchulbong and Udo, a small island reached by ferry, and an especially dense cluster of oreum. The west is known for beaches with clear water and sunsets over the sea. The island is bigger than it looks on a map, and reaching the far side takes a while even by car. Rather than crossing the island in a day, split your days by direction, such as one day east and one day west.
Getting there
Most visitors fly into Jeju International Airport. Domestic flights run frequently from many Korean cities, while direct international flights vary by season and route, so check before you leave. You can also take a ferry from some ports on the Korean mainland, and some people bring their cars this way. Jeju has a separate entry arrangement that applies to visitors of some nationalities, but eligibility and conditions change, so always confirm with official sources. Wind and fog sometimes cancel flights and ferries on Jeju, so it is safer not to schedule things too tightly around your return flight.
Getting around by rental car
With no railway and sights spread widely across the island, many visitors rent a car. Foreigners need to meet requirements such as holding an International Driving Permit, so check with the issuing authority in your country and the rental company in advance. In Korea, traffic drives on the right and the driver sits on the left, so people used to driving on the left, as in Japan, should take particular care when turning and changing lanes. There are many speed cameras, mountain roads are often foggy, and coastal roads are often windy. Drunk driving enforcement is strict, so never drive on a day you have been drinking.
- Confirm requirements such as an International Driving Permit before departure
- Drive slowly until you are used to right-hand traffic and a left-side driver's seat
- Watch for fog on mountain roads and strong winds on coastal roads
- Check insurance coverage and emergency contacts when you sign the contract
- Never drive on a day you have been drinking
Getting around by bus and taxi
You can travel Jeju without driving. Express and trunk buses from the airport link the main areas, and some routes circle the island. Outside the towns, however, buses run less often and some last buses leave early, so check timetables in a map app and decide on your return ride first. When traveling by bus, stay where bus routes converge and plan to explore one area in depth each day. Mix in taxis for short trips or stretches with few buses, and if you are traveling as a group, another option is hiring a car with a driver for the day.
Preparing for changeable weather
Jeju has long been called Samdado, the island of three abundances: stones, wind, and women, a name that reflects how windy it is. The coast can be clear while clouds and rain cover Hallasan, so the weather differs greatly by location on the same day and can change quickly within a day. Summer is rainy with a typhoon season, and in winter Hallasan is covered with snow, requiring proper hiking gear. Check the forecast for the specific area you are visiting and the mountain forecast separately, not just one for the whole island, and always carry a windbreaker and an umbrella. Picking one or two indoor places for rainy days in advance makes changes to your plans less disappointing.
Nature rules you must follow
Jeju has many protected areas and clear rules. Taking volcanic and natural stones off the island is prohibited, so do not pick up rocks as souvenirs. Some oreum are closed for set periods under a rest system to prevent damage, some Hallasan trails require advance reservations, and there are cut-off times for starting a climb. The fishing grounds of seaside villages are residents' livelihood, and harvesting seafood there without permission can be punished. In the national park, cooking and camping outside designated areas are prohibited.
- Do not pick up or take volcanic or natural stones
- Stay out of oreum closed under the rest system and other restricted areas
- Confirm Hallasan trail reservations and cut-off times with official sources
- Do not harvest seafood from village fishing grounds
- Stay on designated trails and take your trash with you
How to plan your itinerary
For a first visit, allow at least three days and split the island into east and west, or Jeju City and Seogwipo, moving lodging once to cut down on travel. If you plan to climb Hallasan, you need an early start, so stay near the trailhead the night before, and if the weather is bad, do not hesitate to postpone. Another approach is to choose locations by time of day: stay near Seongsan Ilchulbong for the sunrise or on the west coast for the sunset. Oreum and coastal cliffs are dangerous in strong winds, so do not push yourself, and if you feel unwell, come down immediately and ask for help.
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